Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Aquaponics Systems Designs

!±8± Aquaponics Systems Designs

There is no magical way to design an aquaponics system; the best approach would be to design a system that will meet your goals and your skill level. It would be easy to expand into a more complex system once you have your basic system performing smoothly.

Some of the commonly used methods are the flood and drain method, the continuous flow method and the stand pipe timer method. You would have to take into consideration how much maintenance would be required and the time you have to dedicate to your project and the space you have to work with.

Some Points About the Continuous Flow Design.
As the name implies the water is continuously flowing, it is pumped from your tank with the fish to the grow beds, flows through the growing bed media and plant roots and back into the fish tank. The downside to this method is since the water is flowing less nutrients are absorbed by your plants.

Some Points about the Flood and Drain (Ebb and Flow Design).
This method is similar to what takes place in nature by way of waves, since the media is flooded and then completely drained oxygen can penetrate the root zone of your plants. This will also limit the buildup of solids in the grow beds because of the surging.

The Constant Height in Fish Tank - Pump In Sump Tank Design.
This type of system features a pump in a sump tank that pumps water into your fish tank, the overflow pipe (in fish tank) causes the water to flow out of the your fish tank, after it reaches a predetermined height, and in your grow bed where it drains back into the sump tank.

This type of system has an advantage over other methods, and they have a few disadvantages. The main advantage of this type of system is there is no pump in the tank for your fish; the fish tank stays at a constant height, so if the power goes out your fish tank will stay full.

A Very Simple Flood and Drain System Design.
This is as simple as it gets because your grow bed is sitting above your fish tank, the water is pumped into the grow beds and gravity feeds it back into the tank for the fish.

This is by no means all the system designs, if you are new to aquaponics it would be advantageous to invest in a guide that would give you some design ideas you could adapt to your situation.


Aquaponics Systems Designs

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Stunner LED Aquarium Strip Lights in New Sizes

www.ecoxotic.com Stunner LED Strips - The One Minute Upgrade It's never been faster or easier to add light, accent and shimmer to your tank -- without all that other stuff like heat and noisy fans. Put beautiful, shimmering light right where you want it with a simple, super-efficient, connectable LED fixture designed to easily retrofit into your existing set up. Available in five brilliant colors, Stunner LED strips provide the ultimate lighting solution from nano-aquariums to public aquarium exhibits. Pick your favorite, or mix and match colors with a connectable design that allows you to run multiple Stunner Strips off of one 24V power supply (sold separately). Double your light output by snapping on a polished reflector - or use our extension cable and splitters to keep things tidy. See all the info on our www.ecoxotic.com.

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Wednesday, November 23, 2011

48" 216W T5 HO Aquarium Grow Light Hood Marine Reef Fish Tank LED Freshwater NEW

!±8± 48" 216W T5 HO Aquarium Grow Light Hood Marine Reef Fish Tank LED Freshwater NEW

Brand : | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 24, 2011 00:57:08 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

The design combo of a full spectrum 48" Aquarium T5 High Output 216W Lamp Light Fixture provides highlights of specific corals or areas of your tank. Run 24 hour lighting cycles with ease using individual power cords for 2 x T5 HO Fluorescent 12,000k 65W Daylight Blubs, 2 x 65W Blue Actinic Bulbs and 4 x Bluemoon LED sockets. A fan keeps temperatures under control. A streamlined alloy casing housing is stylish yet resists salt corrosion.

  • 1 x 48" Aquarium CF High Output Lighting Fixture
  • 2 x T5 HO Fluorescent 12,000k 65W Daylight Blubs
  • 2 x 65W Blue Actinic Bulbs / 4 x Bluemoon LED / 2 x Light Brackets
  • 3 x 8ft Power Cord / 3 x On/Off Switch for T5, Actinic and LED / 4 x AIR Vents
  • Spec Sheet on under Images

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Monday, November 21, 2011

DIY LED Reef Aquarium Light - Part 1

Project Info: 100W/6500K LED project to replace 250W MH Reef Aquarium Light. Pieces: LED: Dealextreme www.dealextreme.com Driver: Dealextreme www.dealextreme.com Heatsink Grease: www.dealextreme.com Heatsink: HeatsinkUSA www.heatsinkusa.com Project Benefit: 100W LED lasts 10 years compared to 6 Months for a good quality MH Lamp. This LED "Appears" as bright as my old 250W MH (which used 285W each) Between bulb replacement and electrical savings, this should save 0/year. Not to mention that LEDs DO create heat, but nothing like MH lamps. I was able to turn off my 1/4hp chiller with no overrun!! Notes: When it comes to reefkeeping "Bright" is not necessarily "Right" - color temp is very important. Time will tell if this setup works as well as I think it will. It looks Great - and I love the shimmer! My Aquarium page: www.guarriello.net Although I last updated this page in 2002 there are some pretty good DIY projects Maybe I'll get around to updating soon - but YouTube is so much easier! Pre-assembled Units: I'm considering selling a pre-assembled unit for hood retrofit. This would be a unit that is protected in a water-tight enclosure with a clear lid and thermal switch to protect the LED. The heatsink would be on the outside and it would have to be mounted in a hood with a cooling fan. I would provide it with a US 120V power cord and mounting hardware. Cost would be around 0. If anyone is interested, please post below.

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Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Powerful 120w Led Aquarium Light Blue/white Light for Plants, Reef Corals, Fish

!±8± Powerful 120w Led Aquarium Light Blue/white Light for Plants, Reef Corals, Fish

Brand : MAKEITGROW | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Nov 15, 2011 23:51:03 | Usually ships in 24 hours

120w led use for growning of plants, reef corals, fish, etc. Colors: White/Blue : White (15,000k - 20,000k) Blue (460nm)Environment-Friendly. Don't contain harmful substance, Includes two power cable and two switches for separate control of blue and white leds for timer. Built-in cooling system to solve the heat dissipation excellently. Built-in power supply, CE approved, No setup required, just simpler and safer plugs directly. The lighting area and height above the plant can be changed according to different plants and environment, and also technical parameters are changed. NOT A WATER PROOF ITEM DO NOT WET ITEM

  • Powerful 120W LED aquarium light can replace standard250w - 300W MH/HPS aquarium
  • WHITE, BLUE LIGHT WITH INDIVIDUAL SWITCH
  • Build in contant Current Power Supply with high performance and low electricty consumption
  • Build in fan x 8 pieces to keep life of LED lasting even longer and led running at a cool tempture
  • SEIZ: 400x212x62mm, 120w (120x1w)

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Monday, November 7, 2011

Freshwater Aquarium Lighting - How to Choose the Best Lighting System

!±8± Freshwater Aquarium Lighting - How to Choose the Best Lighting System

You've successfully navigated the difficult task of buying a tank, gravel and decorations but there's one more thing to think about...the lighting! If you're not sure what type of lighting to get, don't worry. Today, we'll show you how to choose the best lighting system for your aquarium. There are six basic kinds of lighting systems used in aquariums, which can further be divided by three easy to remember categories-Fluorescent, LED, and Metal Halide.

There are four types of lighting you would find under the category fluorescent-typical fluorescent, compact fluorescent, high output fluorescent and finally very high output fluorescent lights.

Typical fluorescent lights can reach a seemingly high temperature on the Kelvin chart but don't let the numbers scare you. You may have received a fluorescent light if you purchased a starter kit. The common wattage for this bulb is fifteen to forty watts and are cheap and easy to replace.

Compact fluorescent lights are energy effective and provide more light than your typical fluorescent light will as they have not one but two tubes. You can usually purchase these bulbs in ten to a hundred watts. Compact fluorescents are known to encourage the growth of aquatic plants. As they provide more light, these bulbs will need a hood fan to keep your tank cool and safe.

High output (also known as T5HO) fluorescent lights just like the name suggests, high output fluorescent gives out more light than your typical or compact light. This type of lighting while very good can get pricey as you'll need a T-5 light fixture. You can expect typical wattage for this bulb to be between twenty and sixty watts.

Very high output (VHO) lights are pricey but they provide a very warm environment for you fish. The typical temperature for these bulbs can run a little warm so you will need to have some type of cooling system in place if you choose to use very high output lights.

LED (or Light Emitting Diodes) can boast many advantages of our their competitors, the fluorescents. These advantages include that they are more energy efficient than fluorescents, last longer - sometimes for years, and stay cool for long periods of time. Unfortunately, may hobbyists allow the steep price of these light systems dissuade them from purchasing them.

Metal Halide - Perhaps the priciest of the three categories are metal halide lights. While they are priciest, the lighting the metal halide provides is similar to the light the sun provides making it an excellent way to promote aquatic plant growth.

Ultimately the type of light that your aquarium will reap the most benefit from is determined by the tank depth, your desire for aquatic plant growth, and the temperature that is best for your little fish friends.


Freshwater Aquarium Lighting - How to Choose the Best Lighting System

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Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Scuba Diving Adventures Lost at Sea Help the Searchers!

!±8± Scuba Diving Adventures Lost at Sea Help the Searchers!

A basic concept in most rescue diver courses is self rescue to keep your self from being lost at sea dive, training is important but should it happen having 4 pieces of scuba diving equipment with you will make you chances of being rescued significantly higher and they are useful tools on most adventure scuba diving trips. Like the Boy Scouts say be prepared!

Plastic Whistles, Safety Sausages, Snorkels and a Light.

The 4 best things to have are a loud plastic whistle, a long safety sausage, a snorkel and a light. The good thing is this dive equipment will all fit in a dive pocket quite easily, and are relatively cheap dive gear to buy, so there is no reason not to have them.

Plastic whistles

Plastic whistles don't rust and they don't run out of air to sound them until it becomes moot. Sound carries a real long way on the water, especially at night. Most modern "BCD's" Buoyancy Control Devices have one built in, usually attached to the low pressure inflator, right next to where your mouth is. Another option is air powered horns also attached to the low pressure inflator mechanism in a variety of ways. Air horns are even better at producing signal, put are not fool proof as they are mechanical and can have any number of things make them non-operational, and you will eventually run out of tank pressure to sound them. 50 bar of air will give you a lot of bursts, but as the pressure in the tank decreases, so does the volume.

Safety Sausages

Safety sausages are mostly orange with some being yellow. Searchers can spot these on the surface from a long way off for 2 reasons, one they are orange which instinct makes you pay attention to as it is usually associated with danger in the wild. The 2nd reason is that they are out of the water, in the air, and can be made to wave which further increases there visibility; again humans are hard wired in our reptilian brains to see things that move for food and safety. The main draw back is that they can not be seen at night unless, they are illuminated some how. As they have no movable parts or batteries they are Kiss simple provided they don't have a leak, and even with a leak they will float so can still be seen from the air, or decks on boats that are elevated. It also a good idea as a diver to mark where you are coming up at so boats doesn't run over you. Many safety sausages will also have a plastic whistle attached to sleeve that stores them, a good feature to look for when you are shopping for dive gear.

Snorkels

You want to get me worked up try telling me why you are such a pro that you don't need a snorkel! What a load of smelly poop, with the exceptions of night manta dives, or penetration dives on silt layered wrecks or caves, I always have my snorkel attached to my mask! I have been in flat seas more than once with no wind, and came up with a thunderstorm that was over the horizon at the start of dive, whipping up 2.5 meter seas in 45 minutes. If you come up away from the boat or the boat can't see more than 100 meters, you could be in for an exhausting 20 minutes or more fighting for breathe while swallowing and puking Neptune tea.

A Pocket Light

A LED pocket light is very handy for looking in holes in the day time for pipe fish and crabs and nudibrachs. I am especially drawn to extended battery life that the LED's provide, most go almost 8 hours before you need to change the battery, this could be the difference that gets you found if you are a drift on the open ocean at night. They can be used in a couple of ways, placed inside the safety sausage which will stand out as a beacon for a long way at night, again elevated, moving and out of place will get it seen. The 2nd way is to point it at boats, planes and helicopters and do the classic SOS, Save Our Souls, 3 long, 3 short, 3 long. Remember do this by moving your hand over the lens, not by turning the switch on and off which heightens the possibility of an equipment failure when you need it least.

Military, rescuers and commercial vessels, including high flying commercial flights will all respond to an SOS if they see it, if fact, are required by maritime law and tradition to respond if it does not put them or their ships in danger. With the long burn time of a LED you should get one maybe even two nights or more out of the batteries. A light turned on pointing at a boat in the day time can be seen for a long way off, and when the batteries die you can use it as a mirror in the day time to flash people a long way off to bring attention to you including planes and helicopters.

As usual the best defense is a good offence, keep the software in your head engaged, stay within your dive abilities and training, be aware of strong currents, monitor local weather forecasts, keep your dive gear in good order and plan your dive and dive your plan . These will always be your best bet from being Lost at Sea.


Scuba Diving Adventures Lost at Sea Help the Searchers!

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